How to Properly Clean a Travertine (Or Any Other Natural Stone) Floor

The following instructions for cleaning your travertine floor are the same ones usually provided to restoration clients at the end of a professional service. Performing these simple tasks as I describe them is the most important step you can take to keep your travertine serviceable and looking its best.

As a matter of note, this procedure may be used for the proper routine cleaning of any stone or tile floor – the practices are identical.

What You Will Need

You will need the following items to properly clean travertine on your flooring surfaces:

• A soft bristle broom or vacuum with non-scratching wheels and attachments
• Stone Pro Crystal Clean or other high quality neutral stone cleaner
• A good quality roller sponge mop
• A mop bucket with divided chambers (or 2 mop buckets)

Note: My Stone Care has a very high quality cleaning kit for sale at a discounted price. Click the following highlighted text to view the ProKit Stone & Tile Floor Cleaning Kit .

Remove Dry Surface Contaminates

Before applying any moisture to your flooring, always ensure all dust, dirt, and other dry contaminates are completely removed from the surface. This may be accomplished by sweeping or using the vacuum. This is important for two reasons:

• Dust, dirt, and other dry contaminates mix with the cleaning solution and become deposited in the grout lines.
• Dry surface contaminates have an abrasive effect on the floor surface, and over time will degrade the finish.

Please be careful if using a vacuum cleaner as the wheels or attachments may scratch the surface. I also recommend that you place “runner” carpets at all entrances and exits to help trap solid dirt particles and keep them off the floor. Your floor will stay cleaner, for a longer period of time, and it will significantly reduce the scratching and dulling caused by abrasive materials that get tracked in during normal use.

Damp Moping

After removing dry surface contaminates as described above, the floor should be damp moped using the sponge mop. The object of the process is to keep as much standing cleaning solution as possible off the floor and out of the grout lines.

Damp moping instructions are as follows:

A. Ensure you have removed all dry surface contaminates, as described above.

B. Mix 8 oz. of Crystal Clean Concentrate with 1 gallon of cold tap water in the 1^st chamber. If not using Crystal Clean, dilute the product you are using per the manufacturer’s instructions.

C. Fill the 2^nd chamber with cold tap water, only.

D. Dip the sponge mop head into the 1^st bucket of diluted mixture and wring it completely out.

E. Damp mop a small section of the floor and check the mop head for dirt.

F. When the mop head is dirty, dip it in the 2^nd bucket of plain tap water, rinse it off completely, and wring it out. NOTE: DO NOT RINSE THE CRYSTAL CLEAN SOLUTION FROM THE FLOOR! YOU WILL VOID ALL THE BENEFITS OF USING IT. The 2^nd chamber is used to remove the dirt from the mop head, only!

G. Re-dip the sponge mop into the 1^st chamber of Crystal Clean mixture, wring it out, and do another section of the floor.

Repeat items D. – G. until you have finished cleaning the surface.

General Travertine Information

Forward

Having performed restoration and maintenance on literally hundreds-of-thousands of square feet of travertine, I’ve been struck by the fact that there is a vast discrepancy in the appearance and serviceability of certain floors, versus others. Despite the obvious similarities in the flooring material (calcium carbonate-based, “travertine”) certain floors simply look better, and require fewer repairs or remedial maintenance activities over a longer period of time. The reason for this discrepancy is actually very simple - sound maintenance practices versus unsound maintenance practices.

Of all the stones I’ve worked with, I’ve receive more maintenance questions about travertine than any other. This is due in part to the huge popularity of travertine flooring, but also to the fact that many travertine owners experience difficulty in maintaining the aesthetic quality and serviceability of their floors.

The purpose of this document is to explore the reasons behind these maintenance challenges and to empower you, the travertine owner, with the information you need to keep your flooring and accent pieces serviceable and looking their best.

The information that follows will save you thousands of dollars in long-term remedial and maintenance costs - if you put it into practice.

John Forguson - Admin - StoneCareBlog.Com

About Travertine…

Travertine is a sedimentary stone formed in and around hot springs. It occurs when calcite (calcium carbonate) is deposited by water, then compressed over time to a solidified structure. Travertine almost always has holes and channels where water and hot gasses escaped during formation. In most instances, these holes are “filled” during fabrication with cementuous (like grout) or resin (like epoxy) products to form an even, flat surface.

Travertine is one of the softer flooring materials, registering 2.5 - 3.5 on Mohs’s 1-to-10 Hardness Scale. Because of its softness, it is easily scratched and abraded by materials that are harder in composition such as dirt and debris tracked in from outside, unprotected furniture legs and posts, metal, and hard plastics. Like its very close cousins - limestone and marble, it is also highly reactive to all acids, even mild ones such as orange juice.

Items Affecting the Appearance and Serviceability of Travertine

The following items will adversely impact the look and lifespan of your travertine:

• The quality of the stone itself

• Improper routine maintenance

• Exposure to chemicals

• Exposure to excess water

• Exposure to abrasives

• Compression

Stone Quality

Travertine quality varies as widely as the places it is found. In general, higher quality stones will have a tighter (compacted) structure, fewer “fill” areas (especially wide, shallow areas where the “fill” has very little to bond to), will be filled on both sides (to prevent “punch through” from high heels, furniture legs, etc.), and will exhibit a quality fabrication finish (no saw marks, blemishes, or unfinished areas).

Unfortunately, poor quality travertine will make itself known very quickly once it is installed. Rapid fill loss, “punch throughs”, pitting, and discoloration will occur at an accelerated rate. However, the maintenance tips we’ll explore later in this document will help keep the misbehavior to a minimum.

Improper Routine Maintenance

Improper routine maintenance is the single greatest cause of travertine degradation. More travertine is damaged by improper care and maintenance than any other influencing factor, including stone quality. These maintenance oversights include:

Wet Mopping - Wet mopping is the single largest cause of “fill” loss, spalling (physical deterioration and pitting of the stone caused by water), and microbial growth (dark discoloration in pits, crevasses, and grout lines). Travertine floors should NEVER be wet mopped with a string mop (or any other type, for that matter) - they should be swept thoroughly and damp-mopped with a sponge mop, only.

Failure to Keep Surfaces Properly Impregnated (Sealed) - Failure to keep travertine properly impregnated (sealed) is the second-leading cause of travertine deterioration, and plays even more heavily if the surfaces are wet-mopped. Proper impregnation keeps water, oil, and other contaminates out of the stone and helps stop fill loss, spalling, microbial growth, and staining.

Every time moisture penetrates the surface of your travertine, it has both a physical and chemical affect on the stone - both are negative. Wet stone expands, drying stone contracts. Multiple cycles of expansion and contraction weaken both stone and fill areas, resulting in pitting and fill loss. Do you remember when your teacher called water the “universal solvent”? Enough said.

Use of Improper Cleaning Chemicals - I never cease to be amazed at the varied number and types of cleaning chemicals people (and their professional cleaning personnel) use on their travertine floors. I’ve seen everything from vinegar and water (”that’s what my grandmother used”), to heavy-duty stone cleaners (”guy at the tile store said this was the strongest stuff they had”), and just about everything else in between.

Rather than providing you a list of things you shouldn’t use on your travertine (it’s a very large list), for the sake of brevity I give you the one solution you should use to routinely clean your travertine: a pH-neutral (-7), non-chelated cleaner specifically designed for natural stone. Nothing else. Ever. Period. (Yes, “nothing else” includes Swifters and Windex!) For those of you not familiar with chelates (pronounced kee’-lates), they are chemicals added to detergents and cleaners (including many routine stone cleaners) to “soften” the water by sequestering “hard water” minerals (such as calcium) from the detergent so it can clean more effectively. Sounds good, right? Wrong! Remember what your travertine is primarily composed of - calcium! Floors cleaned with chelated products look dull, drab, and lifeless.

Failure to Keep Floors Properly Swept or Vacuumed - Earlier in the document we touched on Moh’s Scale of Hardness and determined that travertine fell between 2.5 and 3.5, on a 10 point ranking. Unfortunately, the grit and fine gravel tracked onto your floors from outside register 6 to 7 on Moh’s Scale - they are twice as hard as your travertine. If they are not routinely removed, they act just like sandpaper on your floor. Every time someone walks on them, they are abrading and scratching the surface.

Failure to Replace Missing Fill - When your travertine loses fill, the area immediately around the hole no longer has physical support and becomes much more susceptible to further damage. Additionally, the hole left by the missing fill will take on water, cleaning solution, dirt, or whatever else falls into it. This will eventually result in spalling, microbial growth, and internal damage to the stone.

Exposure to Chemicals - Your travertine should not be knowingly exposed to any chemical agents other than the neutral, non-chelated stone cleaner and impregnator mentioned earlier in this document.

However, life happens, and sooner or later something will get spilled. How you respond to the spill will depend on whether the spilled substance is water-based or oil-based, alkaline or acidic. If your surfaces are properly impregnated (sealed) you have nothing to worry about from both oil and non-acidic, water-based spills as long as you clean them up in a reasonable time period. If your surfaces are not properly impregnated, you will get a stain - especially if the spill is oil-based.

Acidic spills (orange juice, lemon juice, wine, vinegar, Margarita mix, certain cosmetics, “tile cleaners”, etc.) are a different animal entirely. They will etch the surface immediately - whether it is impregnated properly, or not. Etches appear on your travertine as spots or areas that are much duller than the surrounding stone, and they do not improve with normal cleaning techniques.

You should make every effort to ensure these items (and others like them) do not come into contact with your floor. If they do, remove them immediately from the surface by wiping them inward on themselves to avoid spreading to uncontaminated areas. The good news is that you can remove minor etches and water marks yourself without tools or special expertise. The bad news is serious etches must be removed by a professional. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Compression Damage - Compression damage to travertine exhibits itself in two ways - “punch through” holes in areas where the “fill” or surface is weak, and by scratches that compact the stone (the technical term is “stun”) to the extent a visible mark remains, even after the scratch is physically removed.

Significant punch through holes (under conditions of normal use) are generally indicative of poor quality stone, fabrication, or both. If the stone or fill is breaking through frequently under normal use or foot traffic, it’s time to have a conversation with the folks that sold it to you. However, it is not unusual for even good quality travertine to get the odd occasional hole from a high heel or heavy object that focuses its weight in a small area (pointy table leg, sofa leg, etc). In either event, you should replace the missing fill as soon as possible to prevent further damage.

Stunning occurs when a heavy object is dropped or drug across the surface, resulting in a mark or scratch. Upon impact, the travertine compresses, leaving both a physical scratch or mark, and a scar. Even after the physical scratch has been removed, the scar will still be visible because the underlying stone is now much more dense than the uncompressed areas that surround it. There is no simple fix for this problem after it happens, so the best course of action is to place felt pads on all your heavy items (chair legs, table legs, etc.) to prevent compression scratching.

Copyright © John W. Forguson 2003-2014 - All Rights Reserved

Items Effecting the Servicability of Marble

The marble information contained in this document outlines items that will adversely impact the look and lifespan of marble surfaces. For more information about marble, visit MyStoneCare.Com .

The following topics will be explored in detail:

· Chemical Exposure
· Improper routine maintenance
· Exposure to abrasives
· The quality of the stone itself

Exposure to Chemicals, Acidic Substances, and Oils - More marble is damaged by chemical exposure than any other single source. Most of this damage is from accidental spills. However, a good percentage is caused by the use of improper cleaning chemicals. Your marble should never be knowingly exposed to any chemical agents other than those outlined later in this document.

We speak to literally hundreds of clients each year with chemically damaged marble. Here’s the breakdown (in order of frequency) of the events that damaged their stone:

· Accidental Spill of an Acidic Substance (orange juice, lemonade, wine, vinegar, etc.)
· Use of Improper Cleaning Chemicals (including accidental exposure)
· Contact with Cosmetic Products (facial cleaners for acne, citrus based soaps & shampoos, etc.)
· Embedded Watermarks and Stains from Cups, Glasses, and Bottles
· Personal Accidents Around Toilet Bases (oops, I missed…)
· Physical Scratches and Stunning
· Pet Accidents (urine & vomit)
· Embedded Oils Stains (food substances, cooking oil, butter, essential oils, etc.)

No matter how careful you are - sooner or later something will get spilled, dripped, dribbled, dropped, or deposited on your marble. How you respond to the accident will depend on whether the foreign substance is water-based or oil-based, alkaline or acidic. If your surfaces are properly impregnated (sealed) you have nothing to worry about from both oil and non-acidic, water-based spills as long as you clean them up in a reasonable time period. If your surfaces are not properly impregnated (sealed), you will get a stain - especially if the spill is oil-based.

Acidic Substances - Acidic spills (orange juice, lemon juice, grapefruit juice, wine, vinegar, Margarita mix, certain cosmetics, “tile cleaners”, “bathroom cleaners”, “tub & toilet cleaners”, etc.) are a different animal entirely. They will etch the surface immediately - whether it is impregnated properly, or not. Etches appear on your marble as spots or areas that are much duller than the surrounding stone, and they do not improve with normal cleaning techniques.

Etches can be classified into three categories:

Minor: Results in loss of shine / reflectivity. No roughness can be felt on the etched area when a thumbnail is scraped across the surface from an undamaged area into the affected area.

Moderate: Results in loss of shine / reflectivity. Slight roughness can be felt on the etched area when a thumbnail is scraped across the surface from an undamaged area into the affected area, but there is no visible pitting or “cratering”. If the etch has caused a crater, you will feel (and sometimes see) a drop-off when performing the thumbnail test.

Severe: Results in loss of shine / reflectivity. Significant roughness can be felt on the etched area when a thumbnail is scraped across the surface from an undamaged area into the affected area, and there is visible pitting and/or “cratering”. Severe etches over 1/16 of an inch deep will require an epoxy patch or replacement of the stone.

You must make every effort to ensure that acidic substances (like those listed above, and others like them) do not come into contact with your marble. If they do, remove them immediately from the surface by wiping them inward on themselves to avoid spreading them to uncontaminated areas.

The good news is that you can remove minor etches yourself without tools or special expertise, on all but black or green marbles, by using our Etch Remover ProKit.

To learn more about the Etch Remover ProKit, click the following link or copy and paste it into your web browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MSCPROKIT-ETCH&Click=5248

We now also have two mechanized kits available (by special order) that will allow you to remove minor etches and watermarks from both black and green marbles, and optionally repair and re-polish both moderate and some severe etching on all marbles. If you are interested in these kits, please call us at 866-801-4225 to discuss your application.

As I stated earlier, there is no acceptable method to completely stop acid etching on marble surfaces. There are topical, film forming sealers available that will stop acid etching, but they cause more problems than they solve. This class of products is not recommended, nor do we sell or use them for the following reasons:

· Nearly all have problems adhering to polished surfaces - they chip, flake, and peel.
· They are easily scratched - more easily than the stone, itself.
· They require more routine maintenance than the stone itself would.
· They must be stripped and re-applied on a routine basis.
· They look terrible - even when new they give marble a “fake” look

However, it is possible to both slow down the etching process and lessen the severity of acid etching through the use of engineered wax. Engineered wax creates an invisible, ultra high gloss barrier between the acidic substance and the stone, thereby giving you valuable seconds (in some instances) to remove the substance from the surface before it reaches the stone. Even if you don’t get to it in time to stop the etching, the etch mark will be far less severe than it would have been on an unwaxed surface. The down side? ENGINEERED WAX CANNOT BE USED ON FLOORS. PERIOD. EVER. Surfaces treated with engineered wax become EXTREMELY SLIPPERY, so it may only be used on tables, vanities, counters, Pullmans, or other surfaces that do not come into contact with foot traffic.

We have an outstanding Engineered Wax product available, and it is the same one used by hotels and casinos worldwide to protect and beautify the marble in their high-end rooms. It is fast, easy to use, develops an ultra high gloss, and enhances the color of the stone, all while providing a barrier that significantly slows the etching process.

To learn more about Engineered Wax, click the following link or copy and paste it into your web browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MSC-WAXL&Click=5248

Oh, by the way, did I happen to mention it’s NOT FOR USE ON FLOORS?

To keep your Engineered Wax finish at its high gloss peak between applications, we recommend the use of Stone Pro Finishing Touch. Finishing Touch is outstanding for “vanity” polishing on all natural stones, and works especially well in conjunction with engineered wax surfaces. It is silicone based (rather than petroleum based), and will not remove engineered wax coatings with routine use. It is also highly effective on granite and stainless steel.

NOTE TO GRANITE OWNERS: Some of you may use our GranQuartz 113M 3-in-1 spray polish on your polished marble and granite surfaces. Please be advised that 113M is petroleum based and will degrade surfaces treated with Engineered Wax.

To learn more about Stone Pro Finishing Touch, click the following link or copy and paste it into your web browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPFTS&Click=5248

Oil Staining - Like any other natural stone (including granite), unimpregnated (unsealed) marble will stain if it comes into contact with oily substances. Oily food particles, cooking oils, butter, margarine, lubricants, grease, and other oil-based substances will all cause stains that cannot be removed by routine cleaning techniques.

What’s the easy way around this problem? Keep your marble surfaces properly impregnated (sealed)! With the advent of today’s modern fluoropolymer impregnators, there is simply no reason for your marble to ever take an oil stain. They are fast, safe, easy to use, cost-effective, and will stop oil staining dead in its tracks. There is a theme developing here…

However, in the event you should get an oil stain on your marble, fear not - we have a product that will remove it completely. Our Stain Removal Poultice will remove embedded oil (and other organic) stains completely from marble surfaces. However, before ordering our Stain Removal Poultice, please call us at 866-801-4225 to discuss your application.

To learn more about Stain Removal Poultice, click the following link or copy and paste it into your web browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MSC-PSR&Click=5248

Non-Acidic, Water Based Stains - Again, unimpregnated (unsealed) marble can stain if it comes into contact with colored, water (or other)-based substances. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, sauces, juices, wine, and just about any other colored substance you can think of can create staining that cannot be removed by routine cleaning techniques. In fact, just plain water (depending on the mineral and chemical content) can cause staining or color leaching on unimpregnated (unsealed) marble surfaces. Worse yet, if the substance is acidic, you can get an etch and a stain at the same time!

To avoid these types of stains, please keep your marble surfaces properly impregnated (sealed)! There is no reason not to do it. With one notable exception, “watermarks”, (that we will discuss in the following Section), proper impregnation will stop staining.

If you should get an organic stain on your marble, in most instances our Stain Removal Poultice will remove it completely from marble surfaces. However, before ordering our Stain Removal Poultice, please call us at 866-801-4225 to discuss your application.

“Watermarks” - Watermarks are the trickiest problem of all to deal with on polished marble. They manifest themselves as discolored areas that conform to the shape of the cup, glass, bottle, or other wet object that was placed on the stone, then allowed to reside there until the fluid fully penetrated the surface.

Please note that watermarks can occur even on properly impregnated and engineered waxed surfaces! How could this happen, you ask? Because the discoloration is formed under the pressure of the object residing on top of the stone, driving the fluid in. Impregnators and waxes are designed to function at atmospheric pressure, only. They are not designed to stop fluids that are under (hydrostatic) pressure. They will lengthen the time it takes for the watermark occur, they will lessen the severity of the watermark - but they will not stop it if the object remains on top of the stone, forcing the fluid in under pressure. However, they still remain your single best defense, and can make the difference between a watermark that can be removed - or one that becomes a permanent eyesore on your stone.

Watermarks can be stains (depending on the fluid under pressure), or they may be chemically induced loss of color (leaching). And, yes - even plain water (depending on the chemical and mineral composition) can cause both leaching and/or staining on marble surfaces.

The best offense against watermarks is a good defense! Here are some sound tips for avoiding them. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure…

· Always use coasters when placing cups, glasses, or bottles on marble surfaces.
· Keep a soft cloth handy on bath and bar counters to place wet containers on.
· Do not allow wet objects to reside on marble surfaces.
· Keep your non-flooring marble surfaces properly impregnated (sealed) and waxed.
· Keep your marble flooring properly impregnated (sealed).

Watermarks, just like etches, are classified into three primary categories:

Minor: Minor visibility on surface. Fluid has not fully penetrated the surface of the stone. Can be removed, on all but black or green marbles, by use of our Etch Remover ProKit.

Moderate: Readily visible on the surface. Fluid has penetrated less than 1/32″ into the surface. Actual stains may be removed by using our Stain Removal Poultice. If color leaching causes the mark, the surface will require honing to remove the damaged area, then repolishing.

Severe: Very high visibility on the surface. Fluid has penetrated more than 1/32″ into the surface. Actual stains may be removed by using multiple applications of our Stain Removal Poultice. If color leaching causes the mark, the mark must be considered permanent.

Improper Routine Maintenance - Improper routine maintenance is the second greatest cause of marble degradation. Improper routine maintenance can itself cause damage, and it most certainly “opens the door” to many of the problems we discussed earlier in this document. Consider bad maintenance practices to be a “gateway” to larger problems… Here are a few to be on the lookout for:

Use of Improper Cleaning Chemicals - I never cease to be amazed at the varied number and types of routine cleaning chemicals people (and their professional cleaning personnel) use on their marble surfaces. I’ve seen everything from vinegar and water (”that’s what my grandmother used”), to heavy-duty stone cleaners (”guy at the tile store said this was the strongest stuff they had”), and just about everything else in between.

Rather than providing you a list of things you shouldn’t use on your marble (it’s a very large list), for the sake of brevity I give you the one solution you should use for daily / routine cleaning of all your marble surfaces: Stone Pro Crystal Clean. Nothing else. Yes, “nothing else” includes Swifters, Windex, dish detergent, and plain water! If you were to wash your windows with plain “soap and water” (or dish detergent, or plain water) and a sponge, I guarantee that you would not be pleased with their appearance. The same holds true on your marble…

Stone Pro Crystal Clean is safe for all marble surfaces, leaves no streaking or dulling, and contains no chelates. For those of you not familiar with chelates (pronounced kee’-lates), they are chemicals added to detergents and cleaners (including many routine stone cleaners) to “soften” the water by sequestering “hard water” minerals (such as calcium) from the detergent so it can clean more effectively. Sounds good, right? Wrong! Remember what your marble is primarily composed of - calcium! Marble surfaces cleaned with chelated products look dull, drab, and lifeless.

Crystal Clean is specifically designed for use on natural stone surfaces, and provides the following benefits when used routinely on both polished and honed marble:

Completely Neutral, Non Chelated - Crystal Clean does not contain acids, alkalines, or chelates. It is a perfectly neutral cleaner that will not dull or change the appearance of your marble, even with daily use.

Will Not Streak or Dull Even the Most Highly Polished Surfaces - It will not streak or leave residues that affect the appearance of your stone. Crystal Clean is compatible with Engineered Waxed surfaces.

Microbial Retardant Action - Crystal Clean is anti-microbial and retards the growth of mold and bacteria that grow on your stones and grout lines.

Biodegradable and Safe - Crystal Clean is biodegradable and safe to use on all your surfaces.

Reinforces the Seal With Each Use - Crystal Clean contains a small amount of the same fluoropolymer impregnator found in our “Pro” line of sealers. Every time you use it on your marble surfaces, you are strengthening your stone’s ability to resist water penetration and staining from both water and oil-based substances.

Dries Three Times Faster than Water - Crystal Clean contains two evaporating agents that make it dry three times faster than plain water or other stone cleaners.

Highly Cost Effective - One gallon of Crystal Clean Concentrate makes up to 16 gallons of cleaning solution.

To view Crystal Clean Concentrate on our web site, click this link or paste it into your browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPCCG&Click=5248

Crystal Clean is also available in a convenient, ready-to-use spray bottle. Click this link or paste it into your browser to view Crystal Clean RTU:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPCCRTU&Click=5248

Inappropriate Use (or Non-Use) of High Intensity Cleaners - High intensity cleaners should not be used on a routine basis, and ACIDIC CLEANERS - HIGH INTENSITY OR NOT - SHOULD NEVER BE USED ON MARBLE. NEVER EVER. However, certain high intensity products are extremely useful in remedial maintenance situations. If fact, certain routine maintenance procedures will require you to use high intensity cleaners - but don’t worry - they are safe and easy to use, and they will save you both time and money.

All high intensity cleaners designed for use on marble are alkaline based, which is the chemical opposite of acid. They do not react with the calcium carbonate or dolomite in marble, yet they are highly effective in performing the cleaning tasks they are designed for. Let’s take a look at the applications for high intensity cleaners:

· Deep cleaning of marble flooring prior to impregnating (sealing)
· Removal of heavy surface dirt and grime
· Deep cleaning of grout lines
· Removal of engineered wax (or other) coatings from marble prior to etch removal, polishing, or impregnation (sealing)
· Removal of calcification from marble around faucets and fixtures
· Removal of soap residues from showers
· Removal of residues (build-up) left by low quality stone cleaners
· Removal of grout haze
· Neutralization of acid-based polishing compounds

We provide one of the best high intensity marble cleaners available in the world today - Stone Pro Deep Clean Gel.

Stone Pro Deep Clean Gel - Deep Clean Gel is the “gold standard” in alkaline based, high intensity cleaners, and one of my all-time favorite stone maintenance products. It is simply outstanding as a heavy duty cleaner on both polished and unpolished stone surfaces, and is the product we most recommend for deep cleaning marble flooring and grout lines prior to impregnation (sealing), or cleaning of highly soiled surfaces. Additionally, it is highly effective against soap, shampoo, and conditioner residue in showers.

Because of its thicker consistency, Deep Clean Gel does not evaporate as quickly as other cleaners, and provides the longer dwell times necessary to remove deeply imbedded dirt and grime from grout lines and porous areas. It also utilizes a highly effective surfactant that keeps dirt and grime (removed from the surface) suspended in the solution so you can easily remove it before is settles back down into the stone.

Deep Clean Gel will also remove light-to-moderate calcification from marble surfaces, but is not recommended for post-construction grout haze removal. It is also highly effective in neutralizing any acidic powder polishing residues.

Stone Pro Deep Clean Gel is available in both quarts and gallons. To view Deep Clean Gel on our web site, click this link or paste it into your browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPDCGG&Click=5248

Failure to Keep Surfaces Properly Impregnated (Sealed) - Failure to keep marble surfaces properly impregnated (sealed) is a leading cause of marble maintenance problems, and plays even more heavily if the surfaces come into routine contact with water. Proper impregnation keeps water, oil, and other contaminates out of the stone. This is especially critical in “veined” marbles such as Crema Marfil, Emprador Light & Dark, Rojo Alacante, and all the others that feature dissimilar minerals in both horizontal and vertical arrangements. All marbles contain different types of minerals dispersed throughout the stone, and this is readily apparent in the different colors you see across the surface. Generally speaking, the more evenly dispersed and compacted the different minerals are, the less susceptible the stone is to cleavage failure. Cleavage can best be described as a separation point (and sometimes failure point) between two dissimilar minerals.

Cleavage failure does occur in marbles, with some degree of frequency in “veined” stones. With the notable exception of spalling (fatal decomposition of stone caused by continued exposure to water and/or certain chemicals), cleavage is about the only type of physical failure one will usually see that is not related to physical impact.

Cleavage failure is more likely to occur in “veins” and in areas of mineral concentrations greater than 1/8 inch in width or diameter, although it can occur in any area where one mineral stops and another begins.

As a matter of note, cleavage failure can be repaired through the use of color-keyed epoxy or polyester resins. However, these products (and the products used for clean up) are toxic, flammable, and difficult to work with. However, if you are a strong DIY type, call us at 866-801-4225 and we will provide you the product and instructions to perform the repair. Note: We do not show any of the items required for cleavage repair on our site. However, we do have them in stock and will sell them by custom order, upon request.

Cleavage failure can be exacerbated in unimpregnated (unsealed) stones by moisture that penetrates the surface. Wet stone expands, drying stone contracts. Multiple cycles of expansion and contraction eventually weaken the intersections between the dissimilar minerals. Do you remember when your teachers called water the “universal solvent”? Enough said. Please keep your marble impregnated!

We strongly recommend the use of Stone Pro “Ultimate Pro” Impregnator - Ultimate Pro provides the best protection money can buy for polished marble surfaces. It is also safe for you to use and environmentally responsible. The Stone Pro line of impregnators are the only solvent-based products in the world that exceed all U.S. local, regional, state, and federal regulations for pollution by Volatile Organic Compounds.

Nothing Protects Better - The chemical composition of Ultimate Pro is tuned specifically to the porosity of polished marble (and other dense, polished stone surfaces). The fluoropolymer molecules (the parts that actually seal your stone) are manufactured to a smaller size so they can fully penetrate the polished surface and dense stone. Ultimate Pro provides maximum protection against oil and water-based stains, and when used in conjunction with Engineered Wax, can help minimize the damage caused by accidental etching.

Cost Effective - One quart of Ultimate Pro Marble Sealer will impregnate (seal) over 200 Square Feet of polished marble for less than $45.00, with an expected lifespan of 3 years on polished marble floors, 18 months on unwaxed counters, tables, and vanities, and up to 5 years on counters, tables, and vanities that are treated with Engineered Wax.

Easy to Use - Simply apply a very thin coat, keep it wet on the surface for 5 minutes, and wipe it off… It’s that easy!

Fastest Impregnator in the Industry - Stone Pro solvent-based impregnators (including Ultimate Pro) are the fastest impregnators in the world for both application and cure time. You need to leave it on the surface for only 5 minutes (versus 30-60 minutes for competing products), and you can return your polished marble surfaces to service in only 4 hours, versus the 12-24 hour cure times of nearly all other impregnators.

Safe and Environmentally Sound - Ultimate Pro is non-toxic and non-flammable. Its solvent carrier is biodegradable. In fact, the entire Stone Pro line of impregnators are the “greenest” solvent-based products available in the world today.

To view Ultimate Pro on our web site, click this link or paste it into your browser:

http://www.mystonecare.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPUPIMQ&Click=5248

Wet Mopping - Wet mopping is the single largest cause of cleavage failure, spalling (physical deterioration and pitting of the stone caused by water), and microbial growth (dark discoloration in veins and grout lines). Marble floors should NEVER be wet mopped with a string mop (or any other type, for that matter) - they should be swept thoroughly and damp-mopped with a sponge mop, only. Detailed instructions for properly cleaning a marble floor are provided near the end of this document.

As a matter of note, excessive moisture should not be used during the routine cleaning of tables, counters, bars, Pullmans, and vanities, either. They should be lightly sprayed with properly diluted Crystal Clean (6 ounces of Crystal Clean Concentrate in a 1-quart spray bottle filled with water), and then wiped dry with a soft cloth.

Not Keeping Floors Properly Swept or Vacuumed - Earlier in the document we touched on Moh’s Scale of Hardness and determined that marble fell between 3.0 and 4.0, on a 10 point ranking. Unfortunately, the grit and fine gravel tracked onto your floors from outside register 6 to 7 on Moh’s Scale - they are twice as hard as your marble. If they are not routinely removed, they act just like sandpaper on your floor. Every time someone walks on them, they are abrading and scratching the surface.

We recommend that you place doormats and “runner” carpets at all entrances and exits to help trap solid dirt particles and keep them off the floor. Your floor will stay cleaner, for a longer period of time, and it will significantly reduce the scratching and dulling caused by abrasive materials that get tracked in during normal use.

Scratches and Compression Damage (”Stunning”) - With a rating between 3.0 and 4.0 on Dr. Mohs scale of hardness, marble is scratched quite easily. Metal, hard plastics, glass, ceramics, and any other material harder than the stone itself will cause scratching.

Light to moderate scratches can be removed by the use of abrasives (honing) and polishes. Deep scratches may or may not respond to honing and repolishing, depending on whether or not the stone was compressed during the scratch event. The technical term for visible compression of the stone that results in discoloration or cracking on the sides of a scratch or area of impact is called stunning.

Stunning occurs when a heavy object is dropped or scraped across the surface, resulting in a mark or scratch. Upon impact, the marble compresses, leaving both a physical scratch or mark, and a scar. Even after the physical scratch has been removed, the scar will still be visible because the underlying stone is now much more dense than the uncompressed areas that surround it. There is no simple fix for this problem after it happens, so the best course of action is to place felt pads or coasters under all your sharp or heavy items (chair legs, table legs, appliances, etc.) to prevent compression scratches that result in stunning.

We now have two mechanized kits available (by special order) that will allow you to repair and re-polish light to moderate scratches on all marbles. NOTE: THERE IS NO SOLID REPAIR FOR STUNNED SURFACES. If you are interested in these kits, please call us at 866-801-4225 to discuss your application.

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